Published 11/16, Revisited 2/15
Proposed By: Jonathan
Pursued By: David
Bigger is better, right? In the world of spirits one could think that must be the case. Name a well-known liquor or liqueur and it is probably owned by one of the ten largest conglomerates of all things alcoholic. The biggest of the big is Diageo. Their collection includes scotches like Johnnie Walker, Smirnoff in the vodka category and Baileys for a smooth liqueur touch. Throw in Guinness and a very long list of others and they are a one-stop company.
There are plenty of others like them. Pernod Ricard is number two, Beam Suntory three and the most well-known name in rum, Bacardi, four. Bacardi doesn’t just limit themselves to rum though. Their varied stable includes Grey Goose, Dewars, Bombay and even the liqueur with one of the best marketing stories – St. Germain.
The point is not that bigger is worse. These are well established brands that are using the recipes that made them popular, and they have to stick to industry requirements. Scotch, bourbon, and tequila as categories all include deep ownership from these large companies, but they still have to meet the laws that define that spirit.
The idea with the current proposal was to try something local in a classic or inventive cocktail. David was to use spirits found in and around Chicago and I have used some found in the Charlotte region.
It is actually an easy challenge that is getting easier. Two years ago North Carolina had around 30 micro distilleries. Today, the trail includes over 40 stops. Those spirits are heavy on moonshine but include a number of other liquors. The moonshine is understandable to anyone who has ever heard the history of stock car racing in the Carolinas. Early racers honed their craft of making race cars from publicly available vehicles (stock) in order to out run authorities when hauling illegal hooch. Of course, moonshine is really just raw unaged liquor and if you are going to start a distillery that is a good way to get started. The growing maturity of the industry is beginning to show with those white liquors being flavored (gin), aged (all sorts of whiskeys), and crafted (aged gin, brandy, sweet potato vodka and the like).
I made two cocktails but only tasted one of them. The first was a classic of sorts using single malt whiskey called The Modern Cocktail:
1.5 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon bar sugar
1.5 ounce Rua (Great Wagon Distilling) single malt
1.5 ounce Sloe Gin
Dash Absinthe
Dash orange bitters
Mix lemon juice and sugar in shaker, add ice and all other ingredients, shake and strain into a coupe. Garnish with cherry.
The second was a suggestion included on the web site of the distillery called the Maple Cooler. Oddly, Muddy River Distillery is one of the few I found that offered unique ideas for their spirits.
3 dashes bitters
1.5 ounce Queen Charlotte’s Carolina Rum
1.5 ounce fresh orange juice
.5 ounce maple syrup
1 ounce club soda
Mix everything but soda in a shaker with ice, shake, strain into an old fashioned glass with ice and top with soda. Garnish with orange peel.
The Scotch drinkers that tried the Modern seemed to like it. Maybe even enough to have another before going back to Scotch on the rocks. I forgot to taste it myself but I did try the Maple Cooler. It was a nice crossover drink that people who like a little sweet, interestingly maple syrup sweet in this case, and those that like a non-sweet drink cocktail could agree on. It is a very nice use of the more complex spirit that Muddy River offers.
A few more things: I wanted to use Southern Artisan Spirits Cardinal Barrel Rested Gin in a drink. I did that back when we made gin and tonic variations, however, and decided not to repeat in a part as punishment for them for not keeping their web site up to date. Al Gore invented the web to advertise craft spirits didn’t he? Carolina Distillery makes an apple brandy perfect for the Fall season. At our last tailgate a number of guests enjoyed a drink that was equal parts of that brandy, Barritt’s ginger beer and fresh apple cider. Made a bunch but never tasted those either.
David’s Entry:
Some believe cocktails are a waste of good spirits. If the bourbon, scotch, gin, or even vodka is good enough, they say, why adulterate it? That perspective certainly seems crucial to micro-distilleries hoping to attract connoisseurs willing to pay for the extra costs of small-scale production. Like many boutique-styled markets catering to those in the know, the process sometimes matters as much as the product.
Like Charlotte, Chicago seems to have a new micro-distillery popping up each week. For this post, however, I chose Koval, one of the first and the first distillery founded in Chicago since the mid-nineteenth century… if you don’t count prohibition bootleggers. Their website describes a “grain-to bottle mentality” that includes locally-sourced organic ingredients, milling and mashing on-site, and signature packaging and bottling. You’re as likely to encounter Koval at a Lincoln Park farmers’ market as at your neighborhood liquor store. They mean to establish themselves as a Chicago thing, and their marketing, though quiet, has been quite effective. Their product is also much respected. Since its founding eight years ago, Koval has won many gold, silver, and bronze medals at international whisky competitions.
The website points out that, in many Eastern European languages, “Koval” means “blacksmith,” but they prefer the Yiddish word for “black sheep, or someone who forges ahead or does something new or out of the ordinary.” I’ve tried a number of Koval products (they also make imaginative liqueurs), but for this post I’ll talk about their Rye Whiskey. Their rye is unusual because it’s made from 100% rye, but that’s not why I chose it. Rye is a spirit I may possibly maybe might know somewhat well enough to judge. Truth is, all those unadulterators have me at a distinct disadvantage—my palate has never been so advanced that I can speak confidently about what anything tastes like.
And I always sound ridiculous when I pretend I understand how to describe spirits. But here goes: people who know rye might expect spiciness and little of the mellow or corn-y warmth of bourbon, and this rye doesn’t have that sort of body either. But Koval’s approach isn’t to make a spicy rye. Theirs is clean and crisp—more white than brown sugar—and has a bright, light, and unusual quality. If you’re thinking about rye bread when you have a sip, you’re going to be surprised… this isn’t that.
Not that this isn’t good for sipping. Wine Enthusiast gives it a 91 and says, “This rye has aromas of vanilla and coconut. A faint sweetness shows on the palate, with initial notes of coconut and almond, while the finish is gently spiced and drying.”
And to that, I say, “Yeah, what they said.”
As this proposal asked, I also tried this rye in a classic cocktail, the De La Louisiane, which you loyal readers may remember is equal parts rye, red vermouth, and maraschino liqueur (with Peychaud Bitters in an absinthe-washed coupe). I figured that would give me the plainest picture of how Koval might stand up to other ingredients, and I was right. To be honest, however, the Koval nearly disappeared, which made me wonder whether it’s too refined for mixing.
Or maybe it’s just too refined for me. The expense of most micro-distillery offerings means they aren’t likely to supply my usual bourbon, rye, scotch, gin, or vodka. It’d be nice if local micro-distilleries could compete with multi-nationals on price, but alas and of course not. They’re a nice treat, yet remind me that, when it comes to boutique spirits, I’m just not worthy.
Jonathan’s take: I understand global companies but it sure is nice to support creative people making local product.
David’s Take: Like Jonathan, I support local commerce and spirituous ambition… though Old Overholt is probably too good for me.
Retakes 2/15/21:
David: First, confession time: “Local Distilleries” might be the wrong title for my retake on this original post. The two places I chose, Blaum Brothers Distilling and FEW Spirits are actually in Galena and Evanston Illinois respectively. Galena, a former lead mining city and the one-time home of U. S. Grant, is two hours south, and, though FEW Spirts is right next door in Evanston, Chicagoans famously reject just about anything outside the loop as “Chicago.” However, I figured both distilleries were local enough and couldn’t resist them because, like many micro-distilleries, both have great stories.
From Blaum Brothers, I chose bourbon. Back when traveling seemed ordinary, my wife and I regularly visited distilleries as part of explorations, and we spent a pleasant afternoon at Blaum Brothers near the time they began. We re-learned all the standard stuff—what distilling is, how aging works, and how so very important white oak is to bourbon. We also did some tasting, of course. What I remember best, though, is the story of the brothers themselves. Matt and Mike embarked on their venture when, as the website says, they “found that the only way they could get along was to drink whiskey with each other.” Matt, the older brother, looks the more straight-laced, clean-shaven business type, and he is the one with the MBA. Mike, nearly more moonshiner beard than man, has a masters too, but his is in Integrated Homeland Security Management, and he’s a former NSA agent. I also have a whiff of memory—see the tasting part of the tour—about the history of distilleries in Galena, but yadda, yadda, yadda. The brother story stuck with me because I too have a brother close to me in age, and loved hearing that, though growing up they regularly beat the crap out of each other, they forged a real friendship from that fiery start, which… ahem.
The cocktail I chose came from a video of the brothers making a Campfire Sling with two Milwaukee Fox TV hosts. The recipe, which they call “a riff on an old fashioned cocktail,” is simple—two ounces of whiskey, a quarter to one half of an ounce of maple syrup, and two or three dashes of chocolate bitters, garnished with orange peel. As basic as the combination is, it’s quite winning. I happened to have some chocolate bitters, and, while I’d rarely say bitters make all the difference, in this case the bitter gave the cocktail a welcome smoky quality.
From FEW, I chose “Breakfast Gin,” a gin infused with the standard juniper, some lemon peel, and Earl Grey. The back of the bottle reports, “Think gin is just for breakfast? Think again.” Part of what drew me in was the whimsy that seems central to this distillery. The name FEW, in fact, comes from the initials of Frances Elizabeth Willard, a Chicagoan and national president of the Woman’s Christian Temperance Union for nearly twenty years. FEW’s motto is “Fortune Fancies the Bold,” and they see themselves as deeply seated in prohibition Chicago’s mixed (to put it mildly) relationship with temperance.
I used the gin to make a White Lady, another very simple cocktail. In this case, the three ingredients are gin (1.75 ounces), curaçao (1.25 ounces) and lemon juice (1 ounce), all shaken with ice. Like the Campfire Sling, the combination was subtle and pleasing, particularly with the variety of curaçao I used, Mandarin Napoleon. I ran into some recipes that also called for shaking in egg whites, which I didn’t try, but will.
Jonathan: The last time we wrote about local distilleries I noted the number of them in North Carolina was growing. Since that time it has increased from 40 to more than 80, and it seems a new one is announced regularly. I also commented that some of them do not do a very good job marketing their spirits by providing cocktail recommendations that use their product. That is not much of an issue any longer.
My favorite gin is made by Durham distillery so I went to their web site to find a cocktail. That was way more difficult than I thought it would be simply because they offer so many options. The recipes can be sorted by the categories of spirit they produce and also includes lists from an annual cocktail competition. Oddly, I selected a cocktail using barrel aged gin but it did not use their barrel aged gin. Instead I used a barrel rested gin from Southern Artisan Spirits that was already in my liquor cabinet. That’s okay though, I did use Durham Distillery’s Damn Fine Coffee Liqueur. The base cocktail was called Cool Uncle Rico and it insisted I vary it and make Cool Russian Uncle Rico too.
Cool Uncle Rico
1.5 ounce Cardinal Barrel Rested Gin
.75 ounce Durham Distillery Damn Fine Coffee Liqueur
.5 ounce Eda Rhyne Appalachian Fernet
.5 ounce fig simple syrup
Mix all ingredients together and pour into cinnamon stick smoked old fashioned glass.
The recipe did not say anything about ice in the mix or with the drink so I used my Death & Co. cocktail book knowledge of ice and stirred the initial mix with a large round piece of ice. It cools the drink but does not dilute. Who said we are not so savvy?
As mentioned, this cocktail reminded me of a White Russian so I made a second version, the aforementioned Cool Russian Uncle Rico. That version added ice with the drink along with a pour of half and half.
Both drinks were excellent with complexity and depth. The fernet may be the smallest in proportion yet it really made the drink. It may seem easy to skip but smoking the glass with a lit cinnamon stick actually added another noticeable layer. Worth the trouble.
Jonathan’s take: I drink local beer and to the extent possible I am only going to buy local spirits.
David’s take: Local spirits are almost invariably more expensive… but based on my experience they are also almost invariably superior.
Next: It’s Mardi Gras time so the next cocktail will be a new one of the mixer’s choice related to that.